Nepal

NGÀY 2 KATHMANDU: CỤ GIÀ NGƯỜI NHẬT VÀ CHUYẾN XE ĐẾN BESISAHAR

Cụ già người Nhật đến Nepal leo núi lần thứ 5

Sau khi đi lấy giấy phép leo núi về thì đã trưa, mình ghé ăn bánh mì thì gặp cụ ông. Cụ già da đồi mồi, đang ngồi ăn bánh mì, nhìn qua không biết là Trung quốc, Nhật hay Hàn. Cụ bắt chuyện trước “China?” Mình cười “Pê Thô Nam”. Cụ ngật ngù “à à, pê thô nam, pê thô nam’. Sau khi trao đổi thì cụ nói cụ leo núi ở Nepal 5 lần rồi, cung mình đi là Annapurna Circuit cụ cũng đi rồi. Cẩn thận vẽ lại lịch trình cho cho mình. Cụ nay 60 tuổi, là người Nhật nói chuyện vô cùng từ tốn, tiếng anh rất tốt.

Cụ cũng giới thiệu cung cụ sắp leo, bảo là đẹp lắm, có thể nhìn núi tuyết trực diện, không cần phải ngước nhìn. Thường cụ sẽ thuê một người porter+guide để đi với cụ. Sau khi đi leo cung này xong cụ sẽ đi tàu lửa qua Ấn Độ, vùng Nam Ấn, cụ thể là Ấn Độ Dương, chứ Bắc Ấn cụ cũng đi hết rồi. Cụ bảo mình là đứa con gái hiếm hoi người châu Á đi một mình ở đây. Mình mới bảo cụ “Con có bạn người Việt, một nhóm 4 người thì đi cung ABC, một nhóm 3 người đi AC nhưng đã khởi hành đi vào sáng nay. Người Việt đến đây không nhiều nhưng cũng có cụ ạ”

Cung cụ sắp leo nè

Rồi mình chào cụ vì phải đi gấp. Về thu xếp và phải trả khách sạn trước 12h. Ở cục du lịch Nepal, mình đã hỏi được thông tin đắt giá là xe microbus chạy cả ngày đến Besisahar, chuyến cuối là 4h chiều. Nếu hỏi mấy người chạy taxi lung tung ngoài đường, đa phần bảo hết xe rồi, xe chỉ chạy từ sáng sớm, thông tin trên mạng thì lung tung. Mình quyết định đi ngay và không cần phải đợi tới ngày mai. Mình bắt taxi 300 rupee đến Gongabu Bus ngồi đợi chuyến xe 13h. Taxi thắng gấp nhiều lần, đầu mém đập vào ghế mấy lần. Anh tài xế thuận miệng chửi mấy đứa chạy moto không não 🙂

Trả giá phương tiện ngày lễ lớn ở Nepal

Ở đó, mình gặp Enu, một cô giáo dạy học ở Kathmandu, đang trên đường về thăm bà con nhân dịp lễ lớn. Cô ấy thấy mình đi vòng vòng kiếm xe thì cất tiếng

– Besisahar hả? 13h mới có chuyến tiếp, chị cũng đi đến đó nè.

– Bao nhiêu một vé vậy chị => 1000 rupee

– Sao mắc vậy chị? bình thường 500 rupee mà => đang mùa lễ đó, nhiều người đi nên cái gì cũng tăng giá

– Mình bắt đầu dở chứng lý sự “Đã đông người đi, có nhiều tiền như vậy rồi, tại sao lại phải tăng giá làm gì nữa” – Enu và mấy người xung quanh cười một trận”

Một anh chàng tài xế đang bắt khách, còn vài chỗ nữa là xe có thể khởi hành, hỏi mình đi không? Mình hỏi bao nhiêu, ảnh trả lời 1000, mình trả giá liều mạng 500 rupee. Ảnh cau mày nói “đang ngày lễ, người dân Nepal đã đi với giá 600 rup rồi, em là người nước ngoài mà đòi giá thấp hơn, làm gì có chuyện đó” Mình mới bảo “Vậy 600 rup nha” Thế là ảnh bất lực, đi chỗ khác. Mình thì thong thả, đi một mình mà, không xe này thì xe khác.

Chuyến xe từ Kathmandu đến Besisahar

Chị Enu ngồi giải thích là “Em là người nước ngoài nên giá khác” Mình lại lý sự “Người nước ngoài thì sao chứ, em là người Việt, người Việt cũng nghèo như người Nepal. Nếu có tính thêm tiền thì bọn Tây ý, bọn ấy nhiều tiền hơn em” Chị Enu lại cười thêm một tràng ha hả. Nói mà may xung quanh không có đứa Tây nào, sợ vỡ mồm. Thế rồi anh ấy không kiếm được ai, quay lại hỏi đi hong 700 rup, mình nháy mắt với chỉ “Enu đi hong, chị đi em mới đi, giá tốt kìa”. Enu “okay, đi thôi”

Trên đường xuống trạm dừng chân ăn tối, chị ấy đi mua dưa leo chấm muối cho mình ăn, trước đó còn mua nước đóng hộp cho mình uống nữa cơ. Nhìn chén muối ớt đỏ ngầu và quả dưa leo chẻ đôi, sau đó trét muối ớt lên mà thèm quá thế là ăn đại luôn. Mặc trong đầu đang hiện hình ảnh nài nỉ không được ăn cay của anh bác sĩ. Lát sau mình bảo mình thích ăn cá và ăn mỳ, mục đích là để chị hỏi giá dùm. Ngờ đâu chị trả tiền hết hơn, chị bảo chị thích mình nên mua đồ cho mình ăn. Sau này mình còn gặp rất nhiều người Nepal trên đường, mình suy ra

Nếu người Nepal thương bạn, họ toàn mua đồ cho bạn ăn

Mình cực thích cá lăn bột chiên chấm với sốt momo, béo ngậy luôn

Hết phòng ở Besisahar

Lên xe thì chị ấy luôn đảm bảo cho mình được thoải mái. Xe chạy tới 19:00, chị ấy xuống xe trước và cẩn thận dặn tài xế kiếm khách sạn cho mình. Nhưng khi xuống xe, mình và anh tài xế hỏi đâu cũng full chỗ. Những người khác đã đến hồi chiều, đang mùa nghỉ lễ nên người Nepal du lịch rất đông. Mình đã rảo hết, có phòng nhưng họ đẩy giá lên 600-800 rup/ phòng. Không việc gì mình phải trả giá cao như vậy.

Sau đó, mình vào một guesthouse của người Hindu “Chào chị, em biết mọi nơi đã full phòng. Chị có thể sắp xếp cho em ở sô pha hay phòng khách nhà mình cũng được. Bây giờ chỉ có một mình em là con gái ở ngoài đường, thật không an toàn”. Cả nhà đó rất thích thú khi có một đứa con gái nước ngoài vào đó xin ở lại. Đã thế lại có khuyên mũi, nhìn thì y chang người Nepal, mỗi tội mình chỉ nói được tiếng anh.

Cuối cùng, họ sắp xếp cho mình ngủ với mấy đứa cháu gái nhà họ với giá 300 rupee. Nhưng tầm 1 tiếng sau thì mình có luôn phòng riêng, đúng là khó hiểu. Phòng vệ sinh khu nhà này dơ tới mức mình không dám đi toilet. Tệ hơn là mình không thể đánh răng, tắm lại càng không. Đi leo núi không tắm vài ngày cũng bình thường, chuyện đó chả có gì to tát. Mình nghĩ thế nơi leo lên giường đi ngủ.

Xem thêm các bài viết du lịch ở Nepal tại http://leetrinh.com/category/nepal

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77 Comments

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    1. leetrinh says:

      Cảm ơn bạn. Hi vọng bài viết hữu ích

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