Nepal

NGÀY 0 Ở KATHMANDU: HẠ CÁNH AN TOÀN VÀ NHẬP CẢNH

Sau khi quá cảnh hơn 5 tiếng đồng hồ ở Kuala Lumpur và bay thêm vài tiếng thì mình hạ cánh an toàn ở sân bay quốc tế Tribhuvan. Ngồi cùng với cô người Singapore 50 tuổi trên máy bay, cô kể chuyện đây là lần thứ 7 cô đến đây leo núi. Lần đầu tiên là những năm 90 🙂 những lần trước là leo Base camp, pass thôi, lần này là leo peak 6000m (oách vãi). Sau khi nghe mình nói là mình leo một mình cung Annapurna Circuit, không porter, không guide, không kinh nghiệm leo núi trên 3000m, cô bắt đầu kể mấy câu chuyện cô đã gặp.

Những câu chuyện làm người khác lo sợ

– Mày đừng có tự tin như vậy, có những điều xảy ra đột ngột không lường trước được đâu => Mình bảo người ta đi đầy đường đó, tụi nó có sao đâu, với lại bản thân mình đọc rất nhiều tài liệu, mình sẽ uống nhiều nước, uống diamox và đi thật chậm, không sao đâu mà.

– Cô lại bảo nhưng tụi nó có kinh nghiệm xử lý, việc mày đọc nó không giống với thực tế => Mình không trả lời, nếu ai cũng đợi có kinh nghiệm thì biết khi nào mới dám đi, không đi sao có kinh nghiệm.

Thấy mình cứng đầu, cô lại lôi chuyện năm ngoái cô dắt theo thằng con trai 14 tuổi leo ABC, leo lên đỉnh ok hết rồi, nhưng đêm đầu tiên sau khi chinh phục đỉnh, nhóc đó nó sốc độ cao nặng, hôn mê bất tỉnh. Ngay lập tức porter đặt cậu ta trong giỏ, cậu ta 14 tuổi nhưng cao hơn 1m7 :)), cõng cậu ta xuống núi. Hạ độ cao khẩn cấp một mạch 4 tiếng đồng hồ, trong khi đoạn đường đó cô ấy phải leo 2 ngày. Và hàng loạt câu chuyện các anh Nhật, cô Đài Loan, bác Hàn bị sốc độ cao, chết trong teahouse, nghe thật là thê lương.

Bắt đầu mình cũng thấy lo cho sức khỏe mình, bảo hiểm chỉ cover 70% phí trực thăng khẩn cấp, xung quanh mình lại không có ai, mình tự nhủ phải đảm bảo bản thân thật an toàn. Chỉ cần có dấu hiệu đau đầu, dấu hiệu đầu tiên của sốc độ cao, mình sẽ bắt xe đi về, không cần cố đến mức hôn mê, ói mửa, tuyệt đối không dùng đến trực thăng.

Mỗi lần thấy trực thăng là hiểu có ai đang hấp hối ở trên núi

1. Visa on arrival vào Nepal

Visa vào Nepal dành cho công dân Việt Nam là visa on arrival, 25$ cho 15 ngày, 40$ cho 30 ngày. Làm visa Nepal ở sân bay dễ ẹt, thấy bọn tây đứng điền form đồ, mình thì lười điền, khuya 11h đêm, buồn ngủ chết. Mình vọt lẹ tới mấy cái máy làm visa tự động, cà passport xong, typing những thông tin bắt buộc, cái nào có dấu * thì điền. Bước cuối cùng là chụp ảnh khuôn mặt, đứng nhón chân hết cỡ, chụp có nửa mặt thì mình kệ nó luôn. Lấy phiếu tới quầy đóng tiền 40$, tới gặp anh hải quan cười tươi rói namaste một cái. Ảnh bảo đi một mình hả, mình trả lời “yes, nhưng tao có một số bạn sẽ đến vào ngày mai”.

2. Đổi tiền ở đâu có tỷ giá tốt?

Kinh nghiệm chỉ đổi tiền một ít ở sân bay để trả tiền taxi về khách sạn thôi, về Thamel tỷ giá tốt hơn. Thamel là khu dành cho dân du lịch giống như Bùi Viện ở Sài Gòn ý. Sân bay để bảng tỷ giá ngang ngửa Thamel nhưng khi đổi nó charge phí hoa hồng 3%. Tỷ giá ở Porkhara không tốt bằng Thamel.

Taxi sân bay 800 rup về Thamel, giá mắc mà khuya rồi nên kệ, mình đi chung xe vs 3 anh người Việt, share ra cũng chả bao nhiêu. Nếu ban ngày, chịu khó đi bộ ra khỏi sân bay tầm 200m, deal giá 500rup. Taxi dừng ngay đầu Thamel, mình lội bộ tìm cái khách sạn trong hẻm hốc muốn mờ mắt.

Điện thoại mình mapsme định vị sai chỗ, thế là đành dùng đến rickshaw, một phương tiện giống như xích lô. Bác ấy cũng không biết khách sạn ở đâu, bác cầm cái điện thoại mình đi hỏi đường. Đứng mà lo có mất điện thoại không nữa. Sau này sau nhiều lần tiếp xúc, con người họ vô cùng chân thật và tử tế, vấn đề trộm cắp không phải điều thường xuyên xảy ra ở Nepal. Về tới phòng thì cũng 12h khuya, mình đã booking.com trước từ trước. Hostel này rẻ nhất 2 đêm mà chỉ 800 rup thôi, phòng dorm toàn người trẻ du lịch ngân sách tiết kiệm.

3. Lấy giấy TIMS và giấy phép vào khu bảo tồn Annapurna

Giấy phép leo núi Annapurna Circuit, Nepal
Giấy phép leo núi Annapurna Circuit, Nepal

Ở Kathmandu bạn sẽ đến Nepal Tourism Board cách Thamel 30 phút đi bộ, mở cửa vào lúc 10h sáng. Tuy nhiên hôm mình đến là lễ lớn ở Nepal, họ nghỉ làm việc 2-3 ngày, những đứa leo tự túc như mình phải đợi thêm một ngày nữa. Còn các bạn đã có agency lo, guide đã lấy giấy phép từ trước ngày nghỉ lễ.

  • Trekkers’ Information Management System (TIMS): 2000 rupee. Trên đường trekk sẽ có một số nơi check point, bạn cần đến đó khai báo mỗi khi đi ngang. Nếu bạn mất tích thì họ sẽ dễ dàng khoanh vùng mất tích và tìm kiếm bạn nhanh hơn.
  • Annapurna Convervation Area Project (ACAP): giấy phép vào khu bảo Annapurna 3000 rupee

Mình đến sớm 9h sáng và nhanh chóng tìm form và điền nhanh tay, chuẩn bị hình ảnh. 15 phút sau rất nhiều người đến. Form sẽ ghi thông tin cá nhân, phần tiếp là lịch trình leo núi, ngày bắt đầu, ngày kết thúc, lịch trình bao nhiêu ngày, đi từ làng nào đến làng nào. Mình xếp hàng và lấy giấy phép rất dễ dàng trong 1 tiếng. Họ chỉ hỏi mình đi một mình hả? Mình trả lời “Trên đường có rất nhiều người, tao không đi một mình =)

Các bảng thông tin sốc độ cao ở khắp mọi nơi.

4. Sim và internet dùng tại Nepal

Mình trekking vùng Annapurna nên mua hãng Nepal Telecom ở các cửa hàng Thamel, sim 300 rupee+100 rupee gọi 100 phút+nhắn tin, mình không mua internet. Còn ai trekk cung khác thì hỏi người bán ý. Trên núi độ cao hơn 2000m sóng rất chập chờn, nghe gọi còn khó khăn huống chi là dùng 3G. Người bán sẽ khuyên rất chân thành nên mua internet vì wifi trên núi rất mắc, nhưng đừng vì vậy mà tin. Đối với Annapurna Circuit, mình xài wifi free ở các hostel, chat chít bạn bè vẫn được. Duy chỉ High Camp là phải mua, nhưng chẳng chả ai mua làm gì. Leo núi thì tốt nhất đừng trông chờ vào mạng internet vậy cho nó khỏe.

Lời khuyên ở Kathmandu

Thời tiết Kathmandu vào tháng 10 dao động 20 độ, ban đêm 15 độ, tối ngủ ở khách sạn lạnh. Các bạn đi leo núi ở Nepal nên mang theo túi ngủ. Mình không mang vì sợ hành lý nặng, vác không nổi. Hậu quả là con bug cắn đầy người, ngứa suốt thời gian leo núi. Sau này lên cao lạnh quá mình vẫn phải mua túi ngủ.

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  51. Tһis is a taster for what ɑn investment manager һɑѕ
    tо sɑy in һis neԝ book:
    “The financial sүstem limit օf any society іs tһe
    debt level аt whiсh repayment ceases tо Ƅe viable.”

    “Ƭhe misery іndex (i.е. ѕum of inflation аnd unemployment rates) ѕhould be redefined.
    Τhe inflation rate ѕhould be replaced Ƅy the average cost ᧐f consumer
    borrowing.”

    “Tһe choice seems tо be: foolishness now versus deferred foolishness ѡhen the interest cost
    һаѕ mounted fuгther.”

    “The tragedy iѕ that the authorities Ԁo not admit tо thе debt trap.
    Thе farce, thаt tһeir policies worsen іt.”

    Tһese statements ɑll appear in this book:
    e-book 9781907230776 seе website for links tߋ stores
    by country , two hагd cover and a paperback print
    editions. Paperback avаilable now in many countries except USᎪ andd UK, hагd cover editions UЅᎪ Јune 2021,
    UK 23/8/21

  52. Theѕe quotations arе taken fгom a new book.
    “Credit expansion … іs causing slow economic decline and deepening tһe ѡorld’s debt ρroblems.”

    “Ꭲhe economic effеct of tһe pandemic will vaгy with
    the resilience of individual nations.”

    “Informed professionals ԁо not understand the debt trap tһat the
    worⅼd is in.”

    “Do we wіsh tο compound economic аnd political upsets ƅʏ
    continuing tⲟ expand tһе supply ᧐f credit?”

    Thеse statements alⅼ аppear іn this book:
    ebook9781907230776 available now , two hard cover аnd a paperback print
    editions. Paperback ɑvailable now іn many countries еxcept USA
    and UK, harԀ cover editions USA 5/24/21, UK
    23/8/21

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